A modded Cossor 54

[Panrock]

+1. Agree!

Steve

[chriswood]

Lovely neat job, something to be proud of.

[`FRANK.C]

Hi Jac, Steve and Chris
Thanks for the kind comments.

Frank

[LENINGRAD T2]

Hi,
I am impressed by the excellent and very painstaking work.
Trevor mentioned 3D printing. I am a big enthusiast of this technology. This method allows you to create any shape, any missing element. The only limitation is the temperature of use. Most 3D printing materials at temperatures around 70-80 oC begin to gain elasticity and lose mechanical resistance. In such situations, resin remains irreplaceable.

[Mike Watterson]

Most affordable 3D printers can only use materials of poor mechanical strength and you need a 3D CAD model of the part. Often casting is better. Most are poor resolution giving visible raster effects. Serious 3D printing is in 5 figures for the machine and needs an expert to produce the designs.

[LENINGRAD T2]

The costs associated with 3D printing are actually quite high, especially if we create individual elements. In the case of the production of several elements, e.g. knobs, they significantly decrease. The quality of the prints is not perfect, but it can be improved by post-processing, e.g. painting. There are more and more interesting printing materials, e.g. imitating wood, electrically conductive or replacing rubber. Some materials have very high mechanical and thermal resistance. Designing is time-consuming and undoubtedly requires knowledge of 3D graphics processing. In my opinion, this is what stands in the way of the development of amateur 3D printing. I create and print my own designs for my own needs. I have a friend who works in this field professionally and academically. He will certainly take up any challenge.

[`FRANK.C]

When I looked at this thread as I went updating it I couldn't believe that it was over 6 months since my last post. So this update is well over due.
I have been dipping into this project as time allows. I have spent a lot of time n it but not a lot to show.

I have finally boxed up my EHT power supply. It was a project that I started over 10 years ago. I wanted it now to test the dog bone resistors that I moulded. I just need to be sure that the materials that I used wouldn't break down when EHT was applied. I have done some test on them at up to their rated voltage 3.5kV and all appears to be OK. I might be able to disconnect the mains EHT transformer and use this EHT power supply for initial testing of the TV which would make it a little safer.
   
   
I have rebuilt the tag board that is under the chassis and to the rear of the set.
   
   
The chassis had a lot of rust both on the top side and also underneath. In the end it was that bad that I decided to strip the chassis in order to to completely remove the rust.
This has made a lot of work. Pictures are only so good when showing how everything goes back together. Tags and connections can get hidden under components and which pin a wire is connected to can be ambiguous.
So along with notes I have spent time drawing out a wiring diagram to show where each component is connected.

I found that brushing on rust remover took multiple applications and if left overnight it turned into a black crust which needed to be scraped off.
So when I got the chassis striped I cut some J cloths to cover all its surfaces with them. The cloths were saturated with rust remover and left over night.
   
The next day the cloths had done their job. The chassis was completely free of rust. All that needed to be done was dry the chassis off with a clean cloth.
   
Now that I have the chassis clean I need to decide how to protect it. I am not keen on painting it. I am considering plating it. Maybe with Zinc. There is no platers that I know of around here so it would have to be a DIY job.

Frank

[peter scott]

Beautiful work all round!

Peter

[Jac Janssen]

Excellent progress and work Frank.
Which rust remover did you use?

Jac

[`FRANK.C]

Thanks Peter and Jac.

Jac
The rust remover was purchased from a local hardware store.
It is a liquid as opposed to a gel. The instructions says that it can be brushed on or diluted with 5 parts water and used as a dip.
   
Frank