Museum TV installation

[Murphyv310]

I'd agree with the addition of a fan Jeffrey.
My own setup did get very warm and over the years I've had two freeview boxes fail with psu troubles. A couple of years ago I installed a fan and the running temperature dropped considerably and since the setup has been 100% reliable

[Terry]

... A Poundland 3 way mains block will be hooked up to the IEC inlet ...

You wuz robbed!

Until I saw the picture I assumed this was a typo!

All my Poundland mains blocks are four-way with ½m of cable - just right for your application ...

I'd go back and demand a 25 pence refund, if I were you ...

By the way, those studs through the block from top to bottom look a bit odd - especially the one that looks as if it will obstruct one of the plugs.

I've mounted mine using the keyhole slots provided in the rear with the fixings done up sufficiently tightly to prevent movement, although an extra stud immediately against the top edge will guarantee absolutely no movement afterwards, if that is considered necessary.

[ppppenguin]

This is typical Poundland tactics, like the 170g Toblerone in a 200g box. Presumably they found they could get anyone to make them 4 way blocks to sell for £1 so they agreed on 3 way.

The studs are temporary. I started mounting one this way in the back of the wooden rack cabinet. Remove a couple of cover fixing screws (tri-lobe heads!) drill through and fix down with thin wood screws. This felt more secure than using the keyhole slots though Terry's trick of an extra screw sorts that pretty well. I was going to repeat the trick with 6BA or M3 screws here as using the keyhole slots on a sheet metal panel with limited space behind looked a bit tricky. I could be wrong.

[ppppenguin]

More holy than righteous

I used a 20mm holesaw in my drill press. A bit tedious because it had to be cleared out after each hole. I reckon it gives cleaner holes that the commonplace flat bits. The latter will also be blunt after a few holes in this stuff.

[AlanBeckett]

Forstner Bits do a good job and don't need clearing.

Alan

[ppppenguin]

Alan, thanks for suggestion. Not really seen them before. Would this be a good place to start: http://www.screwfix.com/p/forstner-bit-s...eces/17412

[ppppenguin]

Terry said: "I've mounted mine using the keyhole slots provided in the rear....."

Just remembered that these 3 way blocks don't have keyhole slots. The other reaslitic options were double sided sticky pads or bolting them down round the edges with oversize washers.

[pwdrive]

You can cut neat holes with a hole cutter saw if you use a flat backing board held firm with the job clamped to it, pressure's the name of the game..not to much of it.

I usually drill about 3/4's through and then finish off from the other side.

Lawrence.

[AlanBeckett]

Yes Jeffrey, they'd be fine. I think my Set were slightly more than that but not much. You can buy very expensive ones with Carbide Edges etc, but for normal low usage you don't need them.

Alan

[Mark Hennessy]

I also recommend Forstner bits. They aren't so good in a hand drill, but I've had reasonable results. Much, much easier in a pillar drill - which you obviously already have.

They do get quite hot if you run them too quickly - fair enough, given how much material they have to remove. That chipboard would be tough on them, needless to say.

1U modem shelves are good for this sort of task, but I used my last two in my "Infrastructure Cabinet" (how pretentious is that!!!). Thinking I could do with some more one day - or even that it would be nice if the ones I had were black to match the rest of the gear in the cupboard - I looked up the prices. Hmm. Think I'll live with white (or buy a black spray can!).

Keep up the good work!

Cheers,

Mark