03-12-2013, 04:35 PM
Hi,
At last I finally made a start this morning on my Wilmac bandsaw restoration. I bought this bandsaw a couple of months ago through eBay collecting it from Derbyshire in our little Aygo on a beautiful summers day.
The saw was supplied without starter or motor which isn't a problem to me; with the saw home I soon had a 1HP single phase motor connected via a new taper lock pulley on the motor shaft and new drive belt. I've been using the saw until a couple of days ago when the band finally snapped this band being known to be worn when supplied with the saw so rather than simply buy more new bands I decided to restore the saw.
At first I thought the saw to run reasonably well even with the dull 1/4" band installed but whilst adjusting the guides I noticed the band was running "side to side" making correct adjustment a bit hit or miss at the side guides and I thought this would be due to the new tyres needing truing?
Stripping the saw was straightforward enough but I must say I exercised a lot of care; the main frame is cast iron so no rough work could be tolerated because such a frame would easily fracture? Before stripping commenced I did a visual inspection and to test my theory about the tyres I ran the tyres against a DTI (Dial test indicator) just for interest; sure enough the top tyre was out by ten thou and the bottom tyre out by 30 thou on circumference so neither tyre was concentric to the wheel axis which explains the side to side band tracking.
I was informed at the point of sale new bearings had been installed. With the wheels removed I could withdraw the two pairs of bearings which I did with the aid of a 10mm threaded rod; washers; nuts and a spacer taking great care not to force anything otherwise a buckled wheel would be the result. I was surprised to find a lot of play on the bottom wheel and once the bearings were removed I could easily slip the bearings back onto the shaft as they were very loose indeed; both bearings had been running loose on the shaft wearing the shaft to undersize by three thou; doesn't sound a lot but in engineering terms three thou is a big measurement.
The main shaft casting came away in two pieces this being made of cast iron which had previously snapped between two of the securing holes? Thankfully it wasn't me who caused the damage but it will rest with me to correct it? This casting is an interference fit into the saw frame so in effect the break won't affect the saw in any way but I'll see how I feel regarding turning a new casting? I'll need to turn a new shaft because I've never been a fan of knurling to bring a shaft size up? The shaft is fitted with a keyway so will be a bit more interesting to make; the shaft is 5/8" diameter so the Clarke lathe can handle this but the Clarke might struggle with turning a new main bearing casting; it's all good fun and whereas the broken casting and worn shaft would worry many it isn't a problem to me in fact adds to the challenge.
One big surprise for me was to find the main frame cast in two halves and bolted together? Perhaps Wilmac was only a small company with limited machinery otherwise it would have been beneficial to have the casting as one piece to save extra work and machining?
Out of interest it's easy for me to take for granted playing around with pulleys but for novices fitting a pulley to a shaft can be a headache. The pictures show the "taper lock" pulley I'm using on the saw drive shaft; these pulleys are readily and quite cheaply available in many sizes; they can be used with or without key for general workshop use because they lock onto the shaft. To install; the outer pulley is slid onto the shaft then the inner taper is slid on; two Allen grub screws are fully tightened locking the pulley to the shaft making installation very easy indeed. Anyone ever tried to remove one of these pulleys? For a novice using levers such as screwdrivers these pulleys are a nightmare to remove because after all they lock onto the shaft and even with both grub screws completely withdrawn the pulley usually refuses to budge? To make matters worse once installed it's difficult to see which way the taper fits. Please look at the picture of the pulleys; two grub screws lock the pulley in position but how many know that by simply using one grub screw and tightening it into the third hole this grub screw then releases the taper; neat idea which is brilliant once explained?
I'm not in a hurry but now I've started this restoration I plan to stick with it until completion. I'll keep adding notes as work progresses and for a change I've enjoyed myself today without moaning.
Kind regards, Col.
At last I finally made a start this morning on my Wilmac bandsaw restoration. I bought this bandsaw a couple of months ago through eBay collecting it from Derbyshire in our little Aygo on a beautiful summers day.
The saw was supplied without starter or motor which isn't a problem to me; with the saw home I soon had a 1HP single phase motor connected via a new taper lock pulley on the motor shaft and new drive belt. I've been using the saw until a couple of days ago when the band finally snapped this band being known to be worn when supplied with the saw so rather than simply buy more new bands I decided to restore the saw.
At first I thought the saw to run reasonably well even with the dull 1/4" band installed but whilst adjusting the guides I noticed the band was running "side to side" making correct adjustment a bit hit or miss at the side guides and I thought this would be due to the new tyres needing truing?
Stripping the saw was straightforward enough but I must say I exercised a lot of care; the main frame is cast iron so no rough work could be tolerated because such a frame would easily fracture? Before stripping commenced I did a visual inspection and to test my theory about the tyres I ran the tyres against a DTI (Dial test indicator) just for interest; sure enough the top tyre was out by ten thou and the bottom tyre out by 30 thou on circumference so neither tyre was concentric to the wheel axis which explains the side to side band tracking.
I was informed at the point of sale new bearings had been installed. With the wheels removed I could withdraw the two pairs of bearings which I did with the aid of a 10mm threaded rod; washers; nuts and a spacer taking great care not to force anything otherwise a buckled wheel would be the result. I was surprised to find a lot of play on the bottom wheel and once the bearings were removed I could easily slip the bearings back onto the shaft as they were very loose indeed; both bearings had been running loose on the shaft wearing the shaft to undersize by three thou; doesn't sound a lot but in engineering terms three thou is a big measurement.
The main shaft casting came away in two pieces this being made of cast iron which had previously snapped between two of the securing holes? Thankfully it wasn't me who caused the damage but it will rest with me to correct it? This casting is an interference fit into the saw frame so in effect the break won't affect the saw in any way but I'll see how I feel regarding turning a new casting? I'll need to turn a new shaft because I've never been a fan of knurling to bring a shaft size up? The shaft is fitted with a keyway so will be a bit more interesting to make; the shaft is 5/8" diameter so the Clarke lathe can handle this but the Clarke might struggle with turning a new main bearing casting; it's all good fun and whereas the broken casting and worn shaft would worry many it isn't a problem to me in fact adds to the challenge.
One big surprise for me was to find the main frame cast in two halves and bolted together? Perhaps Wilmac was only a small company with limited machinery otherwise it would have been beneficial to have the casting as one piece to save extra work and machining?
Out of interest it's easy for me to take for granted playing around with pulleys but for novices fitting a pulley to a shaft can be a headache. The pictures show the "taper lock" pulley I'm using on the saw drive shaft; these pulleys are readily and quite cheaply available in many sizes; they can be used with or without key for general workshop use because they lock onto the shaft. To install; the outer pulley is slid onto the shaft then the inner taper is slid on; two Allen grub screws are fully tightened locking the pulley to the shaft making installation very easy indeed. Anyone ever tried to remove one of these pulleys? For a novice using levers such as screwdrivers these pulleys are a nightmare to remove because after all they lock onto the shaft and even with both grub screws completely withdrawn the pulley usually refuses to budge? To make matters worse once installed it's difficult to see which way the taper fits. Please look at the picture of the pulleys; two grub screws lock the pulley in position but how many know that by simply using one grub screw and tightening it into the third hole this grub screw then releases the taper; neat idea which is brilliant once explained?
I'm not in a hurry but now I've started this restoration I plan to stick with it until completion. I'll keep adding notes as work progresses and for a change I've enjoyed myself today without moaning.
Kind regards, Col.
Happiness is a wreck of a cabinet to restore.









