Ferguson 3V22 belt change

[60 oldjohn]

I have removed the metal Base Plate. I am not sure how the large PCB should move, I would have thought it should hinge when the correct screws are removed.
John.

[tiv48]

yes remove the brass screws if i i remember correctly you then push the board to the back and lift from the front.
the capistain belt is easy to change.in fact allmechanics on theses top loaders are easy .
rob t

[60 oldjohn]

Hi Rob, thanks. Simple when you know how. For anybody who has same trouble only two screws to remove at the front of the board the center screw at the front should not be removed or the angle frame will be loose and may fall into the machine. The two "earth" straps at rear are infact hinges and should not be undone. As Rob says the rear of the board is only tucked in and should be pulled forwards.
Once I got to the belts they seem ok fast forwards and rewind work but in Play the take up spools do not turn and stops after 10 seconds, with the Capson spewing tape out. Any idears?
When I got the set 3 years ago it worked for about 30 minutes then it developed the above fault.
John.

[tiv48]

take a look at the idler tyre may be hard .its so long since i have done one of these that i cant remember if the take up spool is driven by a slipping clutch belt driven from the capistain or just friction driven from the idler.try covering the casset bulb and push down the small micro switch the mech should then run with no tape inserted you should then see what is suposed to turn what.
a photo of the top pref with the cage removed and the underside would help jog the memory
rob t

[60 oldjohn]

Thank you Rob, I took cassette cage out and could see the metal wheel was not turning the take-up hub rubber tyre, rubber was smooth and hard. As a temporary measure I turned the tyre inside out and replaced the drive belt as it was also perished. The tape transport works ok now but I have not got round to connecting it to a TV.
I had a nos Tyre but when squeezed it sounded like I was squeezing a packet of crisps! It was covered with cracks. Luckily the only belt I had in the kit was the one I needed.

[tiv48]

if you are lucky thats all that will be needed .i would expect the heads to be clogged but a bit of card or finger nail will usualy cure that .(if you need to ask dont attempt it) it was also common to have to tweek the head drum servo.
rob t

[60 oldjohn]

if you are lucky thats all that will be needed .i would expect the heads to be clogged but a bit of card or finger nail will usualy cure that .(if you need to ask dont attempt it) it was also common to have to tweek the head drum servo.
rob t

Hi Rob, I works fine now, except when in Pause no picture is displayed I think I once read that this is the norm on 3V22s ?
Re Head cleaning I use to use IPA + small piece of Shammy Leather. My perfered method now is to play an old tape at X2 speed for 15 minutes or as long as it takes to get a decent picture, though this is not possible on this set "no X2"
I would not fancy using my finger nail incase I cracked the head.
One thing I noticed there is no static earth contact on top center of the Drum as is the case on most later sets.
John.

[tiv48]

hi john you are right there is no picture on this model when in pause .it always amazes me how good the electronics where in these early m/c's and i include the sanyo beta (the big beast) quite heavy engineering made for quit simple drive chains.
of coase things changed when cast chassis became plastic and electronics took over from heavy Capistans for speed controle
and switching psus replaced linner .and the picture on these early jvc m/cs is exelent.
rob t