30-09-2019, 08:45 AM
Welcome to GVR and what a great first post.
The TP308 is on Trader 1392 for those who want to follow Rod's restoration. If he's using original Ekco service data the part numbering will be different.
Most 1950s Ekcos were well designed and robust sets that will restore well. One weakness, probably solved by 1958, was the LOPT structure. A lot were made from a strange clear thermoset plastic that decomposes. The windings are fine but they are left hanging. Several people, including myself, have built repalcement structures from various materials.
Rod's startup procedure is very much the way I do it. Some may call it cowardly (real men just apply mains and wait) but I call it sensible. There is legitimate disagreement about when to replace the wax caps and electrolytics. The main smoothing can(s) often reform perfectly well and can be left. Other electrolytics are usually shot and best replaced. The wax caps will need replacing - don't forget that many Ekco sets have one hidden in the tuner that's easy to miss. The real question is when to do the replacement. The usual recommendation is to get "first light" before embarking on cleaning and mass replacement. Even those of us experienced in the art can make mistakes when doing a mass replacement. It's also a way of establishing that the CRT and LOPT are OK before committing a lot of time and effort.
The TP308 is on Trader 1392 for those who want to follow Rod's restoration. If he's using original Ekco service data the part numbering will be different.
Most 1950s Ekcos were well designed and robust sets that will restore well. One weakness, probably solved by 1958, was the LOPT structure. A lot were made from a strange clear thermoset plastic that decomposes. The windings are fine but they are left hanging. Several people, including myself, have built repalcement structures from various materials.
Rod's startup procedure is very much the way I do it. Some may call it cowardly (real men just apply mains and wait) but I call it sensible. There is legitimate disagreement about when to replace the wax caps and electrolytics. The main smoothing can(s) often reform perfectly well and can be left. Other electrolytics are usually shot and best replaced. The wax caps will need replacing - don't forget that many Ekco sets have one hidden in the tuner that's easy to miss. The real question is when to do the replacement. The usual recommendation is to get "first light" before embarking on cleaning and mass replacement. Even those of us experienced in the art can make mistakes when doing a mass replacement. It's also a way of establishing that the CRT and LOPT are OK before committing a lot of time and effort.
www.borinsky.co.uk Jeffrey Borinsky www.becg.tv
