30-03-2015, 04:01 PM
(This post was last modified: 30-03-2015, 04:02 PM by Nowhere-Man.)
This has been the hardest thing I worked on to date. I've really struggled. Part of my problem is I've been foggy over the mechanical side of the device.
I found there is some resistance in the positive feed and I find the din plugs are troublesome. Inside are poor connections but the plug seems to be welded together. It would be great if I could open the din pin (it has 5 points) , make connections good and glue back together. However, maybe I can buy another 5 pin plug and maybe they're still manufactured? Negative is the centre pin.
Another alternative is to wire new speaker and power leads directly to the small PCB, drill a hole in the rear chassis and feed it all out via a grommet or rubber sleeve around the hole. I checked the fuse and it's not causing resistance so it will be the din pin.
Not sure how typical this design is but here is the way the play drive works on a Pye: The flywheel creates drive. Pushing the lever on the player pushes a rubber rimmed pulley against the flywheel and drives it. The small rubber belt runs from the driven pulley to the actual cassette driver pulley so this pulls tape along. So in play there are three cogs.
The problem I should say is I'm getting a lot of wow but sound is now really good. Drive from the friction method here is really bad. The tape feels really stiff and I suspect too heavy a load. Very often there isn't enough friction to make the drive work - not sure if the tire is a bit worn or not enough tension or maybe the pinch roller is tight.
This may all sound a bit serious but I think I need to keep going at it till I learn from the experience.
By the way, eject is lowering the tray via the motor but not locking in unless I love the little hook manually.
I found there is some resistance in the positive feed and I find the din plugs are troublesome. Inside are poor connections but the plug seems to be welded together. It would be great if I could open the din pin (it has 5 points) , make connections good and glue back together. However, maybe I can buy another 5 pin plug and maybe they're still manufactured? Negative is the centre pin.
Another alternative is to wire new speaker and power leads directly to the small PCB, drill a hole in the rear chassis and feed it all out via a grommet or rubber sleeve around the hole. I checked the fuse and it's not causing resistance so it will be the din pin.
Not sure how typical this design is but here is the way the play drive works on a Pye: The flywheel creates drive. Pushing the lever on the player pushes a rubber rimmed pulley against the flywheel and drives it. The small rubber belt runs from the driven pulley to the actual cassette driver pulley so this pulls tape along. So in play there are three cogs.
The problem I should say is I'm getting a lot of wow but sound is now really good. Drive from the friction method here is really bad. The tape feels really stiff and I suspect too heavy a load. Very often there isn't enough friction to make the drive work - not sure if the tire is a bit worn or not enough tension or maybe the pinch roller is tight.
This may all sound a bit serious but I think I need to keep going at it till I learn from the experience.
By the way, eject is lowering the tray via the motor but not locking in unless I love the little hook manually.
