Please forgive me if I'm wrong but I reckon it was made for 220 V too, The chain of valves Lamps and VDRs would indicate it running on about 230/240V Dc, I can't remember much about selenium rectifiers but they often had heatsink fins and were made up of many series elements. I think they used to drop around 40V too, so this starts to put it in the right ball court. The VDRs won't work properly until a bit of juice is put through them. Check all the valve filaments with a DVM. Check that the bulbs are the correct type. You can remove a valve, calculate the value of a substitute resistor for all the valves in series (Normal running) and put the resistor in place of all the valves. Check the voltage across the resistor, if it is the same as the valves normal total running voltage (check datasheet, someone mentioned 117V I think), remove the resistor refit the valve and off you go............. Fitting another large resistor in series as suggested may confuse things due to the VDRs and cold valve and bulb filament resistances.. A good sign would be the dial lamp brightness. BTW DR in German could mean drossel meaning inductor or coil, usually the Loudspeaker field coil was in the series path as a smoothing choke (DR here). The unmarked L with a core across the HT is a bit weird??
Hope this helps
Hope this helps
