22-02-2013, 12:41 AM
I'm afraid the original aerials are very hard to source - occasionally they appear on sale on eBay, but people selling them know how rare they are. I think I paid around a tenner for one once. On occasion, I've bought scrap sets just for the aerial. Today, it's my policy to only buy sets with perfect and original aerials.
To get a picture of what one should look like, have a trawl of eBay or the photo library at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hackerradiogroup/
If you have a screw in yours, then you are missing the top section, which is solid. And perhaps one or two of the upper tubular sections? Although there are people who can fix them - by keeping a large stock of complete and partial aerials, and by being good at mechanical engineering - I've never had much luck. But I'll give you a bit of a tip - the Hunter that's my avatar had a broken aerial, but I found that the aerial from a Fidelity RAD 15 was a close match. I had to swap them at the knuckle joint, as the Fidelity aerial slid down into the set via a collar rather than the outer stationary section that the Hacker uses. It's not identical, but a pretty good match... Fidelity sets aren't especially valued, so you might get a whole set for less than the price I once paid for just an aerial.
Regarding the white piping, that is glued in place - as you suspect the staples aren't original. Probably. I know that the RP10 used staples. In terms of glue, I just use a general-purpose glue suitable for use with plastics - can't remember the type now, and I'm not in the workshop.
As to how it should fit, it should be flush with the side and front/rear panels.
Does this help?
Mark
To get a picture of what one should look like, have a trawl of eBay or the photo library at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hackerradiogroup/
If you have a screw in yours, then you are missing the top section, which is solid. And perhaps one or two of the upper tubular sections? Although there are people who can fix them - by keeping a large stock of complete and partial aerials, and by being good at mechanical engineering - I've never had much luck. But I'll give you a bit of a tip - the Hunter that's my avatar had a broken aerial, but I found that the aerial from a Fidelity RAD 15 was a close match. I had to swap them at the knuckle joint, as the Fidelity aerial slid down into the set via a collar rather than the outer stationary section that the Hacker uses. It's not identical, but a pretty good match... Fidelity sets aren't especially valued, so you might get a whole set for less than the price I once paid for just an aerial.
Regarding the white piping, that is glued in place - as you suspect the staples aren't original. Probably. I know that the RP10 used staples. In terms of glue, I just use a general-purpose glue suitable for use with plastics - can't remember the type now, and I'm not in the workshop.
As to how it should fit, it should be flush with the side and front/rear panels.
Does this help?
Mark
