09-02-2013, 10:25 PM
Hi,
Hide glue will fail if allowed to become damp or wet Lawrence and it is this which is a benefit of using this glue as it can be softened at a later date but if the glued pieces are kept dry after gluing the bond will hold for hundreds of years.
I've looked at vacuum press websites a number of times Lawrence mostly in America and a decent vacuum set up isn't too expensive.
I agree Joe that many old pieces of furniture will have loose joints but if they have its so easy to re-make the joint using hide glue then the joint should be as good as new again.
Thanks David for your kind comments and for adding a lot of useful information together with links. Your turned items are a delight and Bron and I have a number on permanent display which you kindly gave us as gifts all turned to perfection and a credit to you. Oak isn't the easiest of timbers to turn unless it's green oak; once dried oak is incredibly tough and sharp tools are a must; it can be turned to thin section but I think possibly the risk of the item being turned exploding is more likely to happen during sanding which generates a lot of heat; sanding under power can certainly set fire to fingers very quickly if too much pressure is applied. It's a shame to use your veneering hammers as they are works of art. Feel free David to take this thread in any direction because you won't be kept in after school by the mods for wandering off topic; all input is welcome.
Great download Lawrence; I too have saved it for future reference; I've seen many downloads but not this one; thank you.
What an interesting video Joe; thanks for adding it and very timely because I've just spent a while looking at using water proof PVA for veneering on Lawrence's link. I've seen this method used before and it has a lot of merit over Hide glue because it isn't as messy; much easier to learn; no mess or lots of water and it is heat activated by applying an electric iron set at "silk" perhaps I should have used this PVA on this project as it would have saved me considerable time and effort but then I'm a sucker for punishment and this story would have been much shorter; its possible I'll try using PVA just to compare with hide glue; I wonder if PVA can be softened again by applying steam in a few years?
PVA would be an excellent choice of glue for a novice doing their first veneering project allowing the novice to move onto hide glue once a bit of experience has been gained. I'll be doing more veneering and if I use PVA I'll post details.
Thanks everyone for your input; it's all useful information.
Kind regards, Col.
Hide glue will fail if allowed to become damp or wet Lawrence and it is this which is a benefit of using this glue as it can be softened at a later date but if the glued pieces are kept dry after gluing the bond will hold for hundreds of years.
I've looked at vacuum press websites a number of times Lawrence mostly in America and a decent vacuum set up isn't too expensive.
I agree Joe that many old pieces of furniture will have loose joints but if they have its so easy to re-make the joint using hide glue then the joint should be as good as new again.
Thanks David for your kind comments and for adding a lot of useful information together with links. Your turned items are a delight and Bron and I have a number on permanent display which you kindly gave us as gifts all turned to perfection and a credit to you. Oak isn't the easiest of timbers to turn unless it's green oak; once dried oak is incredibly tough and sharp tools are a must; it can be turned to thin section but I think possibly the risk of the item being turned exploding is more likely to happen during sanding which generates a lot of heat; sanding under power can certainly set fire to fingers very quickly if too much pressure is applied. It's a shame to use your veneering hammers as they are works of art. Feel free David to take this thread in any direction because you won't be kept in after school by the mods for wandering off topic; all input is welcome.
Great download Lawrence; I too have saved it for future reference; I've seen many downloads but not this one; thank you.
What an interesting video Joe; thanks for adding it and very timely because I've just spent a while looking at using water proof PVA for veneering on Lawrence's link. I've seen this method used before and it has a lot of merit over Hide glue because it isn't as messy; much easier to learn; no mess or lots of water and it is heat activated by applying an electric iron set at "silk" perhaps I should have used this PVA on this project as it would have saved me considerable time and effort but then I'm a sucker for punishment and this story would have been much shorter; its possible I'll try using PVA just to compare with hide glue; I wonder if PVA can be softened again by applying steam in a few years?
PVA would be an excellent choice of glue for a novice doing their first veneering project allowing the novice to move onto hide glue once a bit of experience has been gained. I'll be doing more veneering and if I use PVA I'll post details.
Thanks everyone for your input; it's all useful information.
Kind regards, Col.
Happiness is a wreck of a cabinet to restore.







