14-01-2013, 03:35 PM
Hi,
Thanks for your kind comments David regarding my paintwork.
I too dislike water based paints David unless of the interior emulsion kind. I used water based varnish on pine paneling to our bedroom and it actually looks good but durability in this position isn't an issue as it isn't subjected to wear and tear/ sunlight (in my dreams) or moisture.
The company I worked for was forced by EU Directives to convert to water based paint not because of H&S but because of emissions;
http://ec.europa.eu/environment/air/poll..._legis.htm
Top class work Gary and thanks for adding the pictures which look splendid. I think a professional coach painter who left brush marks would soon be out of a job. Primer and undercoat cannot be brushed out as smooth as gloss paint so need flatting as you rightly say Gary but top coats of gloss or varnish should go on extremely smoothly indeed without showing brush marks. I'm not a professional coach painter and have never been taught how to paint but I can apply a smooth top coat without brush marks; as David remarked I also have many disadvantages especially whilst exterior painting given our valley side location and the unpredictable weather.
http://coachpainting.info/traditional.html
The last time I painted the exterior of our bungalow was during the Icelandic volcano eruption and I was most annoyed whilst applying the top coat of gloss; the surface was covered in a haze which I at first thought to be this dust. A neighbour visited and upon him leaving a gust of wind hit the big Scots pine tree at the side of our bungalow creating a cloud of spores/pollen? It was this which was landing on the wet paint. I won't be troubled again though because the tree fell exactly where intended shortly after.
Around 1985 I brush painted a Citroen 2CV using enamel paint and when I traded the car in the salesman never noticed it had been brush painted. Preparation is the key to a good paint job; get the primer and undercoat on without blemish and the top coat should go on without trouble after gaining experience of using a brush through practice. I use a 1.5" "Purdy" paint brush bought from Screwfix and this one brush was broken in on undercoat then has painted the interior and exterior of the bungalow twice; I use a "Dandy" paint brush cleaning system to keep the brush in good condition.
If the undercoat is applied leaving brush marks then the top coat will show the same brush marks. Preparation always takes a lot longer than the actual painting. Painting the bungalow is one job I never look forward to doing but once I get stuck in I settle down and enjoy it. I always treat such jobs as projects rather than a chore so I don't try to rush.
My method of painting is to prepare the surface taking time and trouble over this; apply 2 undercoats and dry flat to 240 grit; if the undercoat has gone on well then this flatting stage is merely de- nibbing to remove specks or blemishes; carefully dust off. Pour some top coat into a clean jam jar or tin and starting at a joint work from top left to right applying a generous coat of paint; this is applied quickly with minimal brushing out the action being only to level it then leave it well alone; playing around with gloss paint is to be avoided; the more it is played with the worse the end result. If the paint refuses to behave then I knock off at a joint and thin the paint with thinners (white spirit). I find if things are just right and I feel comfortable then a good quite heavy coat of paint can be applied without runs or curtains appearing; the trick is to get a level coat of paint on; not thick in one place and thin in another place; if the paint is applied thinly in one section then thickly adjoining it the thick will run into the thin causing trouble; the paint needs to be applied evenly then it holds itself up. This is a trick I read about and it works for me.
Kind regards, Col.
Thanks for your kind comments David regarding my paintwork.
I too dislike water based paints David unless of the interior emulsion kind. I used water based varnish on pine paneling to our bedroom and it actually looks good but durability in this position isn't an issue as it isn't subjected to wear and tear/ sunlight (in my dreams) or moisture.
The company I worked for was forced by EU Directives to convert to water based paint not because of H&S but because of emissions;
http://ec.europa.eu/environment/air/poll..._legis.htm
Top class work Gary and thanks for adding the pictures which look splendid. I think a professional coach painter who left brush marks would soon be out of a job. Primer and undercoat cannot be brushed out as smooth as gloss paint so need flatting as you rightly say Gary but top coats of gloss or varnish should go on extremely smoothly indeed without showing brush marks. I'm not a professional coach painter and have never been taught how to paint but I can apply a smooth top coat without brush marks; as David remarked I also have many disadvantages especially whilst exterior painting given our valley side location and the unpredictable weather.
http://coachpainting.info/traditional.html
The last time I painted the exterior of our bungalow was during the Icelandic volcano eruption and I was most annoyed whilst applying the top coat of gloss; the surface was covered in a haze which I at first thought to be this dust. A neighbour visited and upon him leaving a gust of wind hit the big Scots pine tree at the side of our bungalow creating a cloud of spores/pollen? It was this which was landing on the wet paint. I won't be troubled again though because the tree fell exactly where intended shortly after.
Around 1985 I brush painted a Citroen 2CV using enamel paint and when I traded the car in the salesman never noticed it had been brush painted. Preparation is the key to a good paint job; get the primer and undercoat on without blemish and the top coat should go on without trouble after gaining experience of using a brush through practice. I use a 1.5" "Purdy" paint brush bought from Screwfix and this one brush was broken in on undercoat then has painted the interior and exterior of the bungalow twice; I use a "Dandy" paint brush cleaning system to keep the brush in good condition.
If the undercoat is applied leaving brush marks then the top coat will show the same brush marks. Preparation always takes a lot longer than the actual painting. Painting the bungalow is one job I never look forward to doing but once I get stuck in I settle down and enjoy it. I always treat such jobs as projects rather than a chore so I don't try to rush.
My method of painting is to prepare the surface taking time and trouble over this; apply 2 undercoats and dry flat to 240 grit; if the undercoat has gone on well then this flatting stage is merely de- nibbing to remove specks or blemishes; carefully dust off. Pour some top coat into a clean jam jar or tin and starting at a joint work from top left to right applying a generous coat of paint; this is applied quickly with minimal brushing out the action being only to level it then leave it well alone; playing around with gloss paint is to be avoided; the more it is played with the worse the end result. If the paint refuses to behave then I knock off at a joint and thin the paint with thinners (white spirit). I find if things are just right and I feel comfortable then a good quite heavy coat of paint can be applied without runs or curtains appearing; the trick is to get a level coat of paint on; not thick in one place and thin in another place; if the paint is applied thinly in one section then thickly adjoining it the thick will run into the thin causing trouble; the paint needs to be applied evenly then it holds itself up. This is a trick I read about and it works for me.
Kind regards, Col.
Happiness is a wreck of a cabinet to restore.
