A modded Cossor 54

[`FRANK.C]

Hi Adam
There are many videos on YouTube that shows the method I used. This is one random example.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-PtnwtOR24

The power supply needs to be low voltage high current.
I was using my linear power supply but because of the low voltage it was running warm.
What I then used was one of those cheap china buck converters and a 12V 2A wall wart.
When making the electrolyte it was producing 4 amps at about 3 Volts.
You need to be able to control the current when electroplating too much or too little will give poor results.
I have heard that about 60mA per square inch is about right.

As the anodes are used up pieces break off and float around the electrolyte and can stick to the piece being plated.
After having filtered the electrolyte a couple of times to get rid of the crud.
I wrapped the anodes in some cloth. This has kept the electrolyte clean.

Frank

[Nick]

Yep. You can get bags for the anodes specifically for this... I have a plating line from Gateros for bits from my Landrover...

Bought a cheap-ish smps bench supply from AliExpress just for this...

[LENINGRAD T2]

Hi,
I was curious if you used the chemical nickel plating method. It allows you to apply a thicker layer of nickel, even on complex surfaces. Unfortunately, it is not suitable for home use. Workshops that perform such services professionally usually expect large orders - in my country.

Interesting labels and stamps are often found on the chassis. All these details disappear when the coating is thoroughly rebuilt. What do you think about it? Undoubtedly, the level of interference needed to maintain the museum spirit, good appearance and functionality is debatable.

Adam

[`FRANK.C]

Hi Nick
Good to know about the anode bags. Any video I watched showed the anodes exposed.
I was beginning to wonder was there a reason for this and maybe covering the anodes was the wrong thing to do.


Hi Adam
It is always difficult to know where to draw the line. In this case the set was very corroded/rusted which must be removed.
It is then a case of how best to prevent it from coming back. I am sure many would have different views on this.
If it were a case that there was just some surface rust I would take a totally different route and do as little as possible.

Photo of the top cap screen showing how it corroded it was before it was cleaned up.
   

Frank

[Nick]

https://www.gaterosplating.co.uk/product-page/anode-bag

[`FRANK.C]

Thanks for the link Nick.

The ceramic base for the EHT rectifier showed signs of tracking between the pins and the earthed mounts.
This may have contributed to the demise of the EHT winding.
I was part way through trying to clean it when I found a replacement.
The replacement is a 5 pin but that's not a problem.
   

Frank

[Geordie McBoyne]

Just looking at my Cossor 54 and for the sake of safety those EHT smoothing capacitor terminals should have some sort of protection from electric shock. Turning the capacitors around might be the simplest solution. The EHT rectifier valve should have an insulated top cap.

Geordie McBoyne.

[`FRANK.C]

Hi Geordie
It is a lethal set with many places come in contact with the EHT.
EHT available on the tag boards both under and over the chassis.

Frank