04-02-2020, 07:02 PM
I'm doing some experiments to convert Melford DU1-12 professional monitors to 405. It would be useful to have some high quality modern 405 monitors and I happen to have a number of these 12" monitors available. The service manual is here: https://elektrotanya.com/melford_du-1_se...nload.html but I also have a paper copy. I've scanned the circuit at much higher quality than the Elektrotanya pdf. Doesn't do anything about the drafting which is horrible and hard to follow.
There's a fair bit of interaction between the line scan, power supply and EHT. Also several auxiliary rails are taken from the LOPT. These include 110V for the video amplifier and the CRT heater supply. This was common practice in many later CRT TVs. While I'm playing with the line scan the heater voltage will be all over the place so I've hooked up an external 6.3V supply. Before I did this I measured the AC supply to the heater. It's 15625Hz and nowhere near sinusoidal. My Fluke 87 true RMS DMM read about 5.8V. I have no idea how accurate this is.
At some point I'm going to need to power the heater internally again and check that it's getting the right voltage. Any ideas for a quick and easy way to do this? I really don't think my Fluke is up to the job. I suppose a couple of 6V 150mA bulbs, one from the heater supply, the other from a DC supply and optical comparison is the easiest way I can think of. Anyone got any better ideas?
I've attached part of the schematic. The heater is fed by a capacitor dropper, C15, which if the waveform were a sinusoid would drop about 4.6V at 15625Hz. The 2 taps on the LOPT are for alternative CRTs with 12.6V and 6.3V heaters.
There's a fair bit of interaction between the line scan, power supply and EHT. Also several auxiliary rails are taken from the LOPT. These include 110V for the video amplifier and the CRT heater supply. This was common practice in many later CRT TVs. While I'm playing with the line scan the heater voltage will be all over the place so I've hooked up an external 6.3V supply. Before I did this I measured the AC supply to the heater. It's 15625Hz and nowhere near sinusoidal. My Fluke 87 true RMS DMM read about 5.8V. I have no idea how accurate this is.
At some point I'm going to need to power the heater internally again and check that it's getting the right voltage. Any ideas for a quick and easy way to do this? I really don't think my Fluke is up to the job. I suppose a couple of 6V 150mA bulbs, one from the heater supply, the other from a DC supply and optical comparison is the easiest way I can think of. Anyone got any better ideas?
I've attached part of the schematic. The heater is fed by a capacitor dropper, C15, which if the waveform were a sinusoid would drop about 4.6V at 15625Hz. The 2 taps on the LOPT are for alternative CRTs with 12.6V and 6.3V heaters.
www.borinsky.co.uk Jeffrey Borinsky www.becg.tv







