With other diversions dealt with, I managed to find some time to start the restoration of my Pye Fenman1 today. My delight with the knob repairs was shortlived - as soon as I tightened them onto the control shafts, they proved no more robust than the originals and cracks started to appear, so it was back to the drawing board. My chum 'Old John' had mentioned that repair sleeves were often used on cracked knobs and as I had some 15mm ID aluminium tube, I decided to turn a new set of perspex knob adapators and to sleeve them with aluminum tube glued to the adaptors with Araldite, then when the glue had hardened, to drill and tap the adaptors to accept 4BA grub screws. It seems to have done the trick. I've attached a pic of a cracked adaptor, and a newly turned sleeved one. (looking a bit scruffy as I hadn't cleaned it up when I took the pic).
I've set about replacing several caps in the Fenman1, which includes the smoothing/reservoir caps - 2 x 32uF. One section was ok - the other didn't even move the needle on the ESR meter, and was basically open circuit. The original was held on the chassis with four twisted tags in slots, so I had to enlarge the hole through the chassis to give adequate clearance for the connections on the new cap, and to fit a circular clip to the chassis to support the cap. I've replaced several other electrolytics, and a couple of waxies. Not the easiest of chassis to work on because to get at the components which need to be replaced I've had to disconnect others to move them out of the way, then refit them.
It has the usual manky 2-core mains lead just tied in a knot to restrain it, so that will have to go. I'll repace it with a three core lead with a proper cable restraint.
I've set about replacing several caps in the Fenman1, which includes the smoothing/reservoir caps - 2 x 32uF. One section was ok - the other didn't even move the needle on the ESR meter, and was basically open circuit. The original was held on the chassis with four twisted tags in slots, so I had to enlarge the hole through the chassis to give adequate clearance for the connections on the new cap, and to fit a circular clip to the chassis to support the cap. I've replaced several other electrolytics, and a couple of waxies. Not the easiest of chassis to work on because to get at the components which need to be replaced I've had to disconnect others to move them out of the way, then refit them.
It has the usual manky 2-core mains lead just tied in a knot to restrain it, so that will have to go. I'll repace it with a three core lead with a proper cable restraint.
Regards, David.
BVWS Member.
G-QRP Club Member 1339.
'I'm in my own little world, but I'm happy, and they know me here'
BVWS Member.
G-QRP Club Member 1339.
'I'm in my own little world, but I'm happy, and they know me here'
